Owned by KDU University College’s School of Hospitality, Tourism and Culinary Arts and located on its campus in Shah Alam, the elegant Dewakan restaurant headed by chef Darren Teoh is more than a half-hour’s drive away from Kuala Lumpur’s city centre, but it’s worth the trip. Teoh has worked at Copenhagen’s Noma and Singapore’s Les Amis and champions the use of local ingredients as much as possible in innovative and surprising ways to create a new kind of Malaysian cuisine. Savour dishes like slow-cooked red snapper with temu broth, or black banana porridge. Dewakan is open only for dinner, and there is no a la carte dining. You simply choose from a nine-course or 17-course degustation menu.