One of Singapore’s oldest neighbourhoods, Kampong Glam was once home to Malay royalty as well as Bugis, Arab, Javanese and Boyanese migrant communities in the early 1800s. Today, its colourful shophouse-lined streets draw a crowd looking to experience its rich heritage and hipster hotspots.
While the Sultan Mosque and youthful Haji Lane are key tourist landmarks, there are many other nooks worth exploring. For instance, Type8ar is a workshop and retail space dedicated to typewriters, while rustic restaurants like Hjh Maimunah and Bumbu Restaurant serve up delicious local and Indonesian fare.
For some authentic recommendations on the best of this neighbourhood, hear from the locals – Mother Dough’s Naadhira Ismail, Galeri Tokokita’s Oniatta Effendi and Sifr Aromatics’ Johari Kazura – behind three of the most exciting businesses here.
Naadhira Ismail
Founder and Baker, Mother Dough
Stepping into Mother Dough is like receiving a warm hug, what with the comforting aroma of fresh bakes in the air and glass cases teeming with almond croissants, garlic twists and an array of delicious weekly specials. The bakery was founded in 2018 by Naadhira Ismail, who left a career in fashion and communications to knead her passion for bread-making.
“It’s always a joy to see the counters full at 10am when we open after a whole morning of organised chaos and energy”
“From day one, Mother Dough has always been humbly centred on the love for baking and creating,” says Naadhira. “It’s always a joy to see the counters full at 10am when we open after a whole morning of organised chaos and energy from the bakers and front of house.” So beloved is the bakery by its community, that these same counters are nearly empty by late afternoon – so consider this your tip to order online in advance, or arrive early!
Naadhira’s love for the area’s rich culture and vibrant energy sparked her decision to open the café in Kampong Glam. When she’s not toiling away in the kitchen, you’ll find her chomping down a nasi rawon (a rice dish served with beef soup, beef lungs, tempeh and tofu) at West Sumatran restaurant Sabar Menanti, and washing it down after with a teh tarik halia (ginger milk tea) from Tarik. She also enjoys checking out Cuturi Gallery’s art exhibitions, hunting for eclectic treasures at indie store Shrub and leafing through vinyls at B Side Records.
Oniatta Effendi
Founder, Baju by Oniatta and Galeri Tokokita
Raised in a household where wearing batik was a regular occurrence, it’s no surprise that Oniatta Effendi fell in love with the fabric from a young age. She eventually founded Baju by Oniatta, a fashion label that celebrates the rich traditions and intricate beauty of batik.
“Witnessing the craftsmanship of batik makers first-hand whenever I’ve visited them over the years has deepened my reverence for the tradition and fuels my passion to preserve its beauty through our creations,” she says.
“Kampong Glam is a lively bazaar of stories, flavours and traditions”
Her collections are inspired by culture, nature and feminine resilience, typified by their unique silhouettes and symbolism-laden motifs. As she puts it, “each collection is a woven narrative of my ongoing journey of exploration, curiosity and a deep appreciation for human connection.”
And while her boutique store, Galeri Tokokita, is a peaceful sanctuary tucked away in a second-floor shophouse space – round the corner from Mother Dough – she loves the hustle and bustle of the neighbourhood. “Kampong Glam is a lively bazaar of stories, flavours and traditions,” she says. “And there are so many great places here.”
Oniatta recommends trying the ayam bakar (grilled chicken rice) from Warong Nasi Pariaman and grilled lamb bites from All Things Delicious. “Gelam Gallery on Muscat Street is also worth checking out,” she adds. “They’ve turned a back lane that was lined with trash bins into a walking gallery with some lovely murals!”
Johari Kazura
Founder, Sifr Aromatics
As the third generation of a family of perfumers, Johari Kazura was always destined to run his own scent shop one day. While he grew up helping at his family store, Jamal Kazura Aromatics, he eventually branched out to follow his passion in experimenting with new scents.
While the store’s design embodies the old world, its eclectic layout also invites visitors to follow their sense of curiosity and wonder
Johari established Sifr Aromatics in 2010, a stone’s throw away from his father’s shop. Its name means “zero” in Arabic. Stepping inside is akin to entering an enchanted realm, given how its wooden shelves are lined with intricate antique bottles filled with intoxicating aromas. While the store’s design embodies the old world, its eclectic layout also invites visitors to follow their sense of curiosity and wonder. This is, after all, what keeps Johari excited after all these years.
“I get inspired by life!” says Johari. “The food I eat, the places I go, a new ingredient that lands in my lap. Sometimes it’s a client with an odd request or personality that leads me down paths I would not have taken myself.”
The Kampong Glam area has been the background of Johari’s childhood, and really, his whole life. If you’re in the area looking for lunch, he recommends Zam Zam and Victory Murtabak. “Both are located at the corner of Arab Street and North Bridge Road, and have been serving South Indian Muslim cuisine at the same location for about 110 years. You can’t go wrong with a mutton murtabak at either places,” he says. “There’s also Rumah Makan Minang, which has also been serving Indonesian-style nasi padang for three generations.”
For those who love their history with a dose of art, sign up for the OH! Kampong Gelam pop-up walking tour by local non-profit, OH! Open House, which runs from 30 Mar to 12 May 2024. You’ll get to learn tidbits about this historic enclave as you visit 10 site-specific art installations in the area, including Thai artist Ruangsak Anuwatwimon’s sculptures located at Johari’s store.
For our full list of things to try and places to see in Singapore, check out our Singapore City Guide.
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