Once a 19th-century bathhouse frequented by Proust – as well as a cornerstone of Parisian nightlife in its ’80s and ’90s heyday – Les Bains is finally back. After years of closure, the institution quietly reopened in 2015 as a boutique hotel. Its elegant bar, complete with black and white chequerboard tiles and red barstools, doubles as an experimental laboratory of sorts. Here, mixologists strive to create bespoke cocktails according to clients’ favourite ingredients.