A city that’s constantly in flux, Singapore’s streets may seem to offer up a different face at every visit. But at these five iconic districts, you can glimpse a sliver of its history even as you enjoy the trendy new hotspots that have mushroomed up in recent years. From the aromatic alleys of Little India to the old-school housing estate of Tiong Bahru, there’s much to see, eat and savour. Here’s where to start:
1. Jalan Besar
Meaning “large road” in Malay, this bustling neighbourhood began in the 1880s as a wide tract that cut through a betel nut plantation built around swampland. Farmland then turned into rubber processing and pineapple canning factories during Singapore’s industrial heyday.
Today, a growing number of bars, cafés and local designer shops dominate this former industrial neighbourhood. Check out Chye Seng Huat Hardware, a modern coffee bar that pays homage to Jalan Besar’s past through its facade of heavy metal gates and traditional relief signboard on Tyrwhitt Road.
Elsewhere, long-standing dim sum house Swee Choon Tim Sum Restaurant is a favourite local supper spot that serves up an extensive menu of classic Cantonese small plates till the wee-hours of the night.
For a dose of culture, check out New World’s End, the immersive audio tour by OH! Stories. This romantic story is set against the backdrop of the now-defunct New World Amusement Park – where City Square Mall and City Square Residences currently stand – and unfolds across the back alleys of Jalan Besar.
2. Little India
Adjacent to Jalan Besar, the buzzy area of Little India has had a colourful history. It started out as a racecourse and brick-kilning district in the early 19th century, after which Indian traders settled in and began rearing cattle. These days, Little India’s vibrant streets are lined with pastel-coloured shophouses, flower garland stalls and eateries.
Get a feel of what Little India has to offer by touring Tekka Centre’s huge wet market, where you can snack on crispy, paper-thin dosa (rice flour pancakes) and rub shoulders with the locals gathering fresh produce and spices for their next meal. Then stop by Little India Arcade, where you can get a traditional temporary henna tattoo – typically used during the celebrations of special occasions like weddings and birthdays. The 24-hour shopping mall Mustafa Centre is also a must-visit, if only to witness the staggering array of electronics, groceries and travel accessories for sale.
If you’re in Singapore in late October, be sure to check out the kaleidoscopic displays and tantalising bazaars set up for Deepavali, the Hindu festival of lights.
3. Chinatown
Most notable for its historic places of worship such as the old Hokkien Thian Hock Keng Temple, grand Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum and ornate Hindu Sri Mariammam Temple, Chinatown is where you can gain insight into the lives of early Chinese immigrants who settled in Singapore during the 1820s. Traditional medicine halls and teahouses line the terraces of Pagoda Street, just a minute’s walk from the Chinatown metro station.
You’ll find cheap, delicious eats at well-loved open-air food courts like Maxwell Food Centre and Chinatown Complex Food Centre. Mere streets away, there’s also upscale fine dining like Born and Restaurant Fiz, and trendy new bars like Side Door and Fura.
4. Kampong Glam
The oldest urban quarter in Singapore, Kampong Glam began as a port town with a strong shipbuilding culture. It was then allocated to the Malay, Arab and Bugis communities for residence in the 1820s.
Venture through Haji Lane for street art, trendy cafés and live music venues such as Blu Jaz Café, known for its lively events calendar ranging from jazz jams to improv comedy and spoken word poetry performances. There’s also vintage clothing boutiques such as Vintagewknd and Nonmainstream.
From there, take a short stroll to Muscat Street to visit the Masjid Sultan, one of the most prominent places of worship for Muslims in Singapore. The mosque is best known for its Indo-Saracenic architecture which incorporates minarets and balustrades. Try and see if you can catch the glint of light on the black base of the domes – they are made using glass soy sauce bottle ends which were donated by the less wealthy as their contribution to the construction of the mosque.
The best time to visit the mosque is during the holy Ramadan month, when sprawling night bazaars are filled with the tantalising aromas of traditional snacks such as goreng pisang (fried banana fritters) and biryani (a mixed rice dish with various spiced meats and vegetables).
5. Tiong Bahru
As one of Singapore’s oldest housing estates, Tiong Bahru is a treasure trove of inspiration for local artists and culture lovers. The neighbourhood is full of quirky boutiques and artistic wall murals depicting the old days. Tiong Bahru is also where the traditional meets the contemporary in a seamless blend – the pre-war housing blocks, for example, were built between 1936 and 1941 in the Streamline Moderne style, which favours clean and functional lines. Kim Pong Park, which opened in late 2018, was designed to reflect similar Art Deco influences. Yet just down Yong Siak Street a stone’s throw away, you’ll find fresh artisanal bakes at MICRO and Plain Vanilla, as well as local label OliveAnkara, whose vibrant collections blend African fabrics and modern Asian elements.
Check out Tiong Bahru Market‘s second-floor food centre for stellar hawker eats like Michelin Bib Gourmand chicken rice at Tiong Bahru Hainanese Boneless Chicken Rice and Hokkien mee (Hokkien-style fried noodles) at Hong Heng Fried Sotong Prawn Mee.
Craving a cuppa? At specialty coffeehouse Glass Roasters, you’ll find single-origin coffees sourced directly from small farms around the world and roasted in-house.
A version of this article was originally published in the April 2019 issue of SilverKris magazine. It was updated in April 2024 by Tamaryn Kong.
