Every visitor wants to try okonomiyaki, the savoury pancake synonymous with Osaka, and Okaru – a veteran of the scene – elevates the meal to a dramatic experience. The energetic staff welcome guests to the tiny back-alley location, then plop them in front of a sizzling hot plate for classic okonomiyaki made fresh. The final touch: artworks of local sites and cartoon characters scrawled atop in mayonnaise.