Snake your way through parked bicycles and scooters to the unassuming but always crowded Nair’s Mess. Tucked away in a narrow lane opposite the MA Chidambaram Stadium in Chepauk, the restaurant does brisk business serving hearty meals (set lunch for example comprises rice served with sambar, rasam (a South Indian soup) and an assortment of gravies and dry vegetables) on banana leaves. There’s no menu, so just ask the waiters what’s on offer that day. Order a meal and a variety of sides to go with it. A “fish fry” of vanjaram (seer fish) is their speciality.