Wondering where to buy souvenirs? Head to the state-run Biswa Bangla that celebrates everything Bengali, from textiles to handicrafts and food. It works with artisans and craftspeople across the state, and aims to pass the economic benefits back to them as far as possible. From handmade dolls to Ma Durga masks and kashundi (the heady local mustard) to a winter speciality, nolen gur, a jaggery made with pure natural sugar that can be eaten as is or made into desserts, carry back a piece of Bengal with you.