Stockholm’s jewellery traditions go back centuries. From Viking treasures to 19th-century romantic style, Sweden is most famous for its silver, in part attributed to the quality of light in the North. The shimmering reflections on silverware enhances the luminous beauty of Stockholm’s long icy winters.
“I’m sure the environment forces us to be creative,” says Charlotte Ramel of Ebba Brahe Jewellery. “The cold makes it difficult to go out in a pretty dress, so instead we adorn ourselves with jewellery.”
At the heart of Ebba Brahe Jewellery is a tragic love story. Charlotte Ramel’s ancestor, Ebba Brahe, was the 17th-century love interest of Swedish king, Gustavus Adolphus, but they could not be married due to political reasons. Ramel still has in her family’s possession the original pearl necklace gifted to Brahe by the King, and which inspired Ramel to become a jewellery designer.
Her collections resonate with Baroque romance. One of her first designs, the Wing earrings (shown on model in main photo), were inspired by Ramel’s family crest. They are bold and dramatic in 18K yellow gold and silver with a choice of sapphires, red rubies, and diamonds.
Over at O’Dwyer’s, jewellery designs are classical, yet have an alternative edge. Trained as a goldsmith and stone setter, Irish-born owner Michael O’Dwyer’s depth of understanding is evident in the quality of his stones, and each exquisite piece in his collections.
O’Dwyer’s vision is that ‘every piece tells a story’. The rings hold a particular allure. At once contemporary, yet evoking the spirit of past treasures, their subtle forms and brilliant colours are bewitching.
Stories are very much present in the work of jewellery brand Blue Billie (above), launched in 2015 by Daniela Upmark. The brand’s philosophy is ‘storytelling with symbols and letters’ encouraging the wearer to ‘create their own signature jewellery statement’ through mixing and matching pendants and symbols.
There are two collections. The main one in silver and gold plated, and the second, an exclusive line using gemstones and crystals. The work is delicate, and feminine, with inspiration taken from the sea, nature, and music.
Reflecting Stockholm’s sustainability, the jewellery from MumbaiStockholm (above) is handmade from 100% recycled gold and silver, and ethically sourced stones. After travelling in India, and witnessing the rich adornment of Indian women from head to toe, Cecilia Kores founded her own jewellery brand in 2014.
Her goal was to introduce more innovative gold, silver and diamond jewellery into Sweden, “still with this super elegant, clean design typical to us in the North”. Her three studios and showroom in Stockholm offer handmade bespoke jewellery, as well as recycled gold jewellery. Popular pieces are hidden gem rings, and the Grace Bird bracelet and pendant.
And finally, Maria Nilsdotter’s designs (above) are strong statements. Inspired by fantastical worlds, her work combines sculptural forms. Symbols are redolent from feathers, arrows, and claws, to playing card pendants. Her Fox Ring is stunning. Its head and tail a perfect twist upon the finger, hypnotising with its diamonds, black diamonds and fire opals.
– TEXT BY NOELLE HARRISON
This article was originally published by Singapore Press Holdings.