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Climbing Mount Everest
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I was only six years old when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa summitted Mount Everest, at a time when New Zealand, the country of my birth, had a population of only around 2.1 million. The event had a notable impact on my young life and I resolved to duplicate the climb, as well as climb the other six eminences, collectively making up the highest peaks on all seven continents.
By the end of the physical preparation for the Everest climb, I was training a total of 22 hours per week — weight lifting, running, stair climbing and every Sunday, dragging a 27 kg brick-weighted truck tyre whilst shouldering a 19 kg pack for 15 km.
Finally setting off on March 28, 2010 was a major relief.
My Singapore Airlines flight from Johannesburg terminated in Singapore, where I switched to their subsidiary carrier, Silkair, for the five-hour flight to the bustling Nepalese capital, Kathmandu. Here, various logistical matters were attended to, before taking an early morning flight to Lukla, at 2,860 m, in the lower reaches of the Himalaya ranges. This picturesque little town is some 20,000 ft below the summit of Mount Everest.
The trek to Base Camp at 5,400 m took 10 days and included climbs of several acclimatisation peaks along the way. The scenery during the walk-in was stunning and one literally runs out of superlatives. There was the constant backdrop of the highest mountains in the world, which are predominantly snow-capped, surmounted by a pale blue, high altitude alpine sky.
One of the attributes required for any high altitude climbing is patience, which is not a virtue shared by many climbers. Of the 62 days devoted to the climb, only 20 days were actually spent climbing on the mountain. The rest were devoted to acclimatisation climbs elsewhere, honing ice-climbing skills on the seracs close to camp, resting, sleeping, or recuperating at lower altitude.
Finally, 52 days into the expedition, our Swiss and US-based weather forecasters indicated a weather window opening between May 22-24. We set off at 0300h for Camp 1 via the notoriously dangerous Khumbu Icefall and onto Camp 2, located in the somewhat more benign Western Cwm. The following day was spent resting, before climbing up to Camp 3 at 7,500 m, halfway up the Lhotse Face, a 1,125 m glacial wall of blue ice. The route from Camp 3 to Camp 4 on the South Col of Everest was similarly challenging.
The climb commenced across the Col to the base of the mountain, the summit of which lay 898 m above, enveloped in impenetrable darkness. The first half of the route proceeded up the Triangular Face – a snow-covered, rocky slope averaging perhaps 40 degrees – at the top of which is a ledge known as The Balcony. When not filled up with snow, it provides a rest stop for exhausted climbers. This time, it was full of snow. We accordingly continued and a short while later came to the first of a series of three impossibly steep, ’S’ shaped knife-edge ridges leading up to the South Summit of the mountain. By this time, the snow had stopped falling and the moon had come out, bathing the mountain in a soft white iridescent glow.
Eventually, the South Summit of Everest was breached and we dropped down around 10 m to a ridge leading to the Hillary Step, a vertical rock face also around 10 m: the last significant obstacle to clear before reaching the summit. The space on which one climbs across to the Hillary Step is only 30 cm wide. On the left, directly below one’s toe nails, the sheer drop to the bottom of the Southwest face of Everest is 2,400 m and to the right, a 3,050 m fast track down the vertical Kangshung Face to Tibet. Once atop the Hillary Step, a few more paces will bring you across some tricky vertical rock formations and onto a serpentine peninsula leading to the Buddhist prayer flag-covered summit mound.
It was 0622h May 22 2010 and there I was, standing on top of the world. There was not a cloud in the sky and I could see forever. The mountain peaks I had been looking up to for the past two months were all beneath me. It was magic. An experience never, ever to be forgotten.
P.S I would like to express my sincere thanks and appreciation to Singapore Airlines and Silkair. As part of the Group’s policy of involvement in supporting notable or unusual sporting endeavours, the airlines transported all 66 kg of my climbing gear on a highly favourable basis.
Submitted by Tony A Hampson-Tindale
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