Play in Tel Aviv, Pray in Jerusalem

01 Dec 2011

Play in Tel Aviv

A typical al fresco dining scene at Puah, a restaurant at Tel Aviv’s Jaffa Flea Market.

In this city which has been called the Miami of the Middle East, expect golden sun-drenched beaches, sidewalk cafes bursting with people togged out in the latest fashion trends, bikes for hire (look for the bright green bikes lined up on sidewalks around the city), electric scooters and skateboards whizzing along the sidewalks, boutiques, movie houses, art galleries, Bauhaus architecture, dogs tiny and large, the diamond bourse and the stock exchange. It is very different indeed from the old-world aura of Jerusalem, but no less charming.

Two thousand years separate Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Founded in 1909, with a cluster of houses on the seashore allotted by raffle to some 60 families, Tel Aviv is the country’s second largest city in terms of population size – it’s currently home to over 403,000 people. In contrast to Jerusalem’s comparatively sombre atmosphere, it’s definitely a more fun-filled city.

That’s not to say there aren’t several historical sites of great interest – take for instance, the Independence Hall where the establishment of the State of Israel was declared by David Ben-Gurion on May 14, 1948. Thereafter, he served as Israel’s first Prime Minister and in 1999, he was included as one of Time Magazine’s 100 most influential people of the 20th century. For a touching experience, visit the stately building and listen to the original recording of the declaration ceremony. Ask in advance about the attraction’s organised group tours.

From here, head to Rothschild Boulevard, the city’s main street. A wide avenue with heavy trees shading benches, bike lanes and walking paths, it starts around Independence Hall and flows north-east to the Mann Auditorium. The Mann Auditorium is a low, glass-fronted rectangular building standing on pillars, set off by a large square in front with trees shading seating areas. Opened in 1957 and known for its fine acoustics, the building is home to the world famous Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, founded in 1936 by Bronislaw Huberman.

Along the boulevard are cafes and restaurants to fill you up with food and a spot of people watching. If you like eggs, you must stop in at Benedict (29 Rothschild Blvd, Tel: 972 3 686 8657) where numerous styles of breakfast from around the world are served 24 hours a day. Choose from Texas-style steak and eggs or the cafe’s namesake, Eggs Benedict – poached eggs served either with ham, salmon or spinach on bread and topped with Hollandaise sauce.

Learn more about Israel’s history with a guided tour at Independence Hall.

Head to Benedict for its great variety of breakfast choices, available any time of the day.

Dotting the streets are Tel Aviv’s ubiquitous kiosks – small wooden structures with pointed roofs. When they first appeared in Tel Aviv in 1909, cigarettes, soda water with fruit syrup and bread rolls were what they sold. Today, it’s designer sandwiches – roasted eggplant with feta cheese and grilled peppers on multi-grain bread – and speciality coffee drinks. Everyone sits around to eat on the nearby benches with their babies, friends and dogs.

Tel Aviv is also famed for its Bauhaus architecture, for which it has received recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site – many lovely examples of these early buildings face the Rothschild Boulevard. Get to know them by going on a tour with a Bauhaus Centre guide.