Fabulous one-day itineraries designed exclusively for SilverKris readers.
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Content accurate at time of publication
01 Sep 2011
From its cobblestone streets to the lovingly conserved historical monuments, the US city of Charleston is Southern grace exemplified.
It is perhaps telling that Charleston in South Carolina is the hometown of Rhett Butler, the suave and worldly hero of Margaret Mitchell's classic novel Gone with the Wind. Wander along the city's cobblestone streets, fragrant with yellow jasmine, past pastel-coloured conserved houses, wedding-cake style mansions and oaks draped with Spanish moss and a spontaneous, “I do declare...” may rise to your lips.
Charleston exudes old-world charm and gentility. You know exactly what Butler means when he returns to his hometown at the end of the novel and muses, “There's a little bit of grace and charm left in the world”. Till today, the city remains true to that spirit.
Charlestonians are fiercely proud of their history, which they can trace back to 1670, when Charles Towne (named after King Charles II of England) was set up. The past is taken very seriously here: It was bombed in the American Revolution by King George III’s fleet, and the opening shots of the American Civil War were fired at Fort Sumter. The city’s history – both the beautiful and the dark, the sweet and sour – has been lovingly conserved and showcased. But, there is nothing moribund or stuffy about present-day Charleston. You just have to attend two of its major arts festivals – Spoleto and MOJA Arts Festival – to feel its youthful vibe. Yet, while it is undoubtedly a vibrant, multicultural melting pot, it’s still blessed with the same “idle, easy loveliness” that American writer Henry James praised in his travel tome a hundred years ago.
To discover Charleston, just lose yourself on its streets, amid the low-rise cityscape dotted with churches and manicured gardens. The district is an easy walk but if you're tired, just hop on to – what else? – a horse-drawn carriage.
Here are six of the best experiences to be had.
Fort Sumter, where the American Civil War began and which is now a national monument, is a must-see for the history buff. In 1860, opposed to the federal government’s plan to abolish slavery, South Carolina became the first of the eventual 11 Confederate states to secede from the Union, the United States government. The American Civil War began the following year when Confederate troops attacked Federal forces at Charleston Harbor. For visitors to fully appreciate the historical significance of this harbour-side fort, start off first at the Visitor Education Center, where extensive museum exhibits tell the story of the conflict that led ultimately to civil war. Then take a 30-minute ferry ride to the original fort where you can listen to a ranger’s 10-minute history talk before embarking on a self-guided tour.
For a charming journey back in time, Charleston’s picturesque downtown area is the place to be. The city’s lovingly preserved historic district includes gems like the iconic Dock Street Theatre, reopened last year after a lengthy renovation costing some US$19 million. With its distinctive wrought-iron balcony, sandstone columns and stunning foyer, it will complement beautifully a memorable evening taking in a concert or play here. Other landmarks in the area include the Trinity United Methodist Church, an awe-inspiring Roman Revival-style building designed by Charleston architect Edward C. Jones. Check out the Confederate Museum (188 Meeting Street, Tel: 1 843 723 1541) if you want a glimpse of paraphernalia from the Confederate troops such as uniforms and flags, before traipsing over to the adjoining Charleston City Market. The current building was constructed in 1841, a replica of the Temple of the Wingless Victory in Athens, and is a perfect place to pick up a trinket or knick-knack for the folks back home.
Approaching the Boone Hall Plantation & Gardens estate, visitors will be greeted in silent salute by some 90 towering oak trees draped with picturesque Spanish moss flanking the 1.2km Avenue of Oaks. These Charleston icons, planted in 1743, inspired the oak-lined avenue of the fictional Twelve Oaks estate featured in the 1939 film Gone With The Wind. Don’t miss the slave cabins on the grounds, estimated to date between 1790 and 1810. Today, these brick cabins stand as witness to Charleston's history of slavery, housing exhibitions about African-American history, including poignant details about the daily lives and rituals of slaves and their struggle for emancipation. Other magnificent estates to check out: Middleton Place, which boasts a 26ha terraced garden that opens out to wonderful marshland views; Magnolia Plantation & Gardens for its lush flower gardens; and Drayton Hall, whose grounds represent one of the most significant, undisturbed historic landscapes in America that survived natural disasters, the American Revolution and the Civil War.