Wild Times in Sri Lanka

01 Jul 2011

From the biggest to the most enigmatic and elusive – whales, dolphins, leopards, elephants, turtles and birds – Sri Lanka is where you can see them all. RENUKA SADANANDAN recommends the places to go for the best wildlife experiences on this lush island.

Sri Lanka, free of the burden of secessionist strife that plagued it for over 25 years until 2009, is now enjoying a long anticipated tourism boom.

In ancient times, the country was referred to by the Arabs as Serendib, which was the origin of the English word serendipity.

A teardrop-shaped island located in the Indian Ocean, it is indeed blessed with natural wonders – lush greenery, unending stretches of pristine beaches, azure seas, ancient archaeological sites and an abundance of biodiversity, as visitors are fast discovering. Here are some of the best places to observe your favourite animals in their natural surroundings:

WHALES & DOLPHINS

Travellers to the country have long waxed lyrical over Trincomalee’s stunning natural harbour and glorious white beaches. The historic port city was once a British naval base on Sri Lanka’s eastern seaboard. Located about 260km from the capital Colombo, Trinco – as the area is locally known – is also well known as a playground for whales, and it’s where whale watching first began in Sri Lanka.

A journey of about 45 minutes out to sea between February and early April is likely to offer you a sighting of the largest mammal on the planet, the majestic blue whale, as well as sperm whales, Bryde’s whales and cavorting spinner dolphins. If getting to Trinco seems too long a trip, head south to the lazy fishing village of Mirissa between December and April. At dawn, from Mirissa’s bustling fisheries harbour, a flotilla of boats heads out for the deep seas off Dondra, the southernmost tip of Sri Lanka. It can be a rough ride in choppy waters sometimes, but the first sighting of flying fish and pods of bottlenose dolphins, diving and flipping playfully alongside your boat, is a happy omen of the adventure ahead.

When the shout comes from the keen-eyed crew – “A spout, a spout!” – there is a scramble as everyone aboard, in bulky bright orange lifejackets, rushes for a spot by the rail. It takes a few minutes to see it – that characteristic single-column spray of water as the blue whale takes a breath. The first glimpse of that massive blue-grey body, sunlight glinting silvery bright on its skin as it glides ever so smoothly through the waves, is both humbling and awe-inspiring.

The Mirissa fishery harbour, some 150km from Colombo, can be reached via a scenic coastal drive past the touristy towns of Bentota, Hikkaduwa and Galle.

Another option is the unspoilt Kalpitiya Peninsula in the Puttalam district, famed for its dolphins and now, whales too. The best time to see the cetaceans is between November and March.

WHERE TO STAY

In Trinco, try the 81-room Chaaya Blu (www.johnkeellshotels.com) for tranquil ocean vistas, and Pigeon Island Beach Resort (pigeonislandresort.com), a boutique property that takes its name from nearby Pigeon Island. In Mirissa, Paradise Beach Club (paradisebeachmirissa.com) offers family bungalows and renovated deluxe rooms. Over in Kalpitiya, check out Bar Reef Resort (barreefresort.com) for its rustic cabanas and villas, or opt for the eco-luxe tented calm of Dolphin Beach Resort (dolphinbeach.lk).

The sight of the magnificent blue whale, with its characteristic tail flip, is both humbling and breathtaking.

A myriad of birds can be seen at Bundula, including the rose-ringed parakeet and oriental darters (above).

BIRDS

You can wake up to the sound of birdsong in most parts of Sri Lanka. With over 440 species listed, including some 33 endemics and around 200 migrant species, Sri Lanka is a bird paradise. Most bird watchers recommend making the 253km drive from Colombo down south-east to Bundala, an internationally recognised wetland site with lagoons, inter-tidal mud flats and mangroves, and the nearby Kalametiya sanctuary (213km from Colombo), for its sheer numbers of waders and water birds including plovers, sand-pipers, egrets, terns and gulls. Just as fascinating are the big ones like the spot-billed pelican and the rare black-necked stork. Bundala is typically renowned for the many migrant species seeking refuge from the cold northern winters in India, Europe and Siberia. The migrant season lasts from August to April.

Besides this, to see most of the island’s endemic birds, like the green-billed coucal and spot-winged thrush, as well as the sight of mixed feeding flocks, a visit to the Sinharaja Forest Reserve, about 120km south-east of Colombo, is a must.

WHERE TO STAY

Bundala and Kalametiya are easily visited from any of the hotels in Yala or Tissamaharama. When visiting Sinharaja, try the Boulder Gardens hotel (bouldergarden.com) in nearby Kalawana. For an unforgettable experience, stay in one of the suites set in natural caves.