Highway to Heaven

01 Jan 2012

Leh, capital of Ladakh, may be described as “heaven on earth” but the Leh-Manali Highway with its view of the Himalayan mountain ranges offers a journey that is as remarkable as, if not more, than its destination. ERIKA LIM catches a glimpse of the highway’s multi-faceted beauty.

Traversing 475km of rugged and remote terrain at an average altitude of 4,000m, the Leh-Manali Highway offers one of the most scenic, yet challenging, overland journeys in the world. Each stage of the ever-changing landscape offers a visual feast to even the most jaded traveller.

The unforgettable views, coupled with the promise of a lifetime’s adventure, drive many to embark on this road trip, even though convenient year-round flights to Leh are available from Delhi. If you do decide to set off on this demanding journey, here is an overview of the route and what you can expect along the way.

Rohtang Pass

The Rohtang Pass is the first scenic destination you will encounter on the Highway.

Located 51km from Manali, the Rohtang Pass is the first major scenic destination along the highway. It’s especially popular in early summer when heavy snows, accumulated over the preceding months, draw hoards of visitors who bring with them the infamous Rohtang traffic jams. But away from the hustle and bustle, you might enjoy a rare moment of stillness amid vast fields blanketed in snow, with the full force of nature’s grandeur looming all around.

Overnight at Keylong

Situated 115km away from Manali, Keylong is the busiest town along the highway. For tired travellers, it promises a choice of simple, but decent, guest houses, and a final shot at trying to get phone connections, medical supplies and cash.

Local food stalls, called dhabas, offer common North Indian dishes like dal chawal which is a thick lentil stew eaten with rice. Momo, a kind of dumpling native to Tibet, is a staple in this region as well. Consisting of meat, vegetables or cheese wrapped in a flour-and-water dough, momos are served steamed or fried and with a dipping sauce usually derived from tomatoes. After Keylong, the only forms of accommodation available are tents set up for the summer season.

Baralacha Pass

The towering Baralacha Pass comes next, some 190km from Manali. It is flanked by two rivers – the Chandra and the Bhaga – which merge at Tandi, a small town between Rohtang and Baralacha. A romantic local legend explains the origins of the rivers as two heavenly lovers separated by a mountain. Their sorrow at not being able to meet transformed them into rivers that flowed around the mountain which eventually united at Tandi.

The Baralacha is just the kind of place to inspire such a tale. As the second highest pass on the Leh-Manali Highway at 4,890m, it affords panoramic views of the surrounding slopes, decked out in every conceivable shade of brown. Trees are entirely absent; only scattered shrubs and tufts of grass can survive at this altitude.

Sarchu

Further up at 222km from Manali, Sarchu is a halfway-point on the highway and a popular rest area for travellers before the final push to Leh. There are three types of tents here catering to different budgets – the dormitory-style tent, the standard two-person tent, and the luxury tent that includes a side toilet. At night, the various tents light up and resemble colourful lanterns, presenting a cheerful sight amid the barren mountains.

The campsite sits on flat ground, softened here and there by patches of wild grass. It is a beautiful place to relax, star-gaze and trade stories with fellow adventurers over a steaming cup of chai, the ubiquitous Indian milk tea spiced with aromatics such as cardamom, cinnamon and ginger. At 4,290m above sea level, this simple beverage never tasted better!