5 Must-Dos: Jeddah

01 Jun 2011

The essential quick guide for discerning travellers
BY CLAIRE MALCOLM

1. SOUK STYLING

Al-Balad or old town is a warren of souks and ancient buildings.

The Al-Balad district is a maze of streets and alleyways devoted to both traditional and modern buys. A historic area earmarked for redevelopment – cobblestones have replaced paving stones as part of ongoing restoration works – this is where you’ll find indoor and outdoor souks (bazaars) selling anything from electronics to Arabic oud perfume (a rare and costly perfume oil that’s highly sought after in the Arab world) and Indian gold jewellery. One of the oldest markets in the city, Souq Al-Alawi, in the heart of Al-Balad, is a combination of crumbling Hejazi architecture and colourful stalls where eager vendors enthusiastically ply wares like prayer beads, leather goods, carpets and henna products like hair colouring and conditioners.

2. LOCAL FLAVOUR

Saudi Arabia’s culinary capital boasts a smorgasbord of eats, from Yemeni delights at Fattah Restaurant (Al-Dahab Street, Bab Al-Madinah, Tel: 966 2 604 0620) to lavish five-star Friday brunches at Rosewood Corniche hotel (hotelcorniche.com). Al Nakheel restaurant (Al-Mukhtar Street, Al-Khaledeyyah, Tel: 966 2 606 6644), located along the famed Jeddah Corniche, remains a firm favourite with locals as it offers a true taste of the city’s cuisine and culture. The semi-al fresco restaurant is styled like a traditional tent, with openings on all sides that make the most of the sea breeze. Their fish and seafood dishes are popular, as are their Lebanese, Egyptian and Saudi offerings. Must-tries include Fi Qa’atah, a dish of rice, meat and almonds; and Aysh Abu Laham, or leavened bread filled with mutton and flavoured with fennel and black caraway seeds.

3. STEP BACK IN TIME

Catch a glimpse of the former glory of Jeddah’s powerful trading families at Biet Nassif or Nassif House in the Souq Al-Alawi district. This beautifully restored house of a wealthy merchant dates back to the mid-1880s, and is full of quirky surprises, from ramps that allow camel-mounted messengers access to the upper terrace, to photographs charting historic royal occasions. The gem here is the rooftop terrace that offers fabulous views of the bustling city streets below. Also housed here is the General Directory for Culture & Tourism, which gives lectures and walking tours on Thursday mornings. For visits, it’s best to make arrangements with the help of your hotel concierge.

4. TAKE IN THE SEA

For the Gulf equivalent of the Italian passeggiata or stroll, you shouldn’t miss the 35km-long Jeddah Corniche. The stretch of coast along the Red Sea in Jeddah city is a magnet for local residents looking to stretch their legs or catch up with friends and family. On evenings and weekends, it’s a snapshot of Saudi society as the area is packed with picnicking families, young people reading or hotly debating topical issues, and youths posing with their flashy cars. Apart from its calming sea views, the Corniche is also lined with sculptures ranging from giant sunflowers and anchors to Dali-esque camels. At the southern end is the Mecca Wreck, a popular diving site that’s home to barracuda, surgeonfish and giant moray eels.

Modern artworks and sculptures are a fixture at Jeddah Corniche’s open-air gallery.

5. THE NATURAL ALTERNATIVE

A welcome antidote to the hustle and bustle of Jeddah, the mountain town of Taif lies 1,700m above sea level and is surrounded by the majestic Al-Sarawat Mountains. The summer home of the Saudi government, Taif is also known as the Garden of the Hijaz because it is the region’s agricultural centre. It is famed for its local honey and fruit farms – so be sure to get a taste of the fresh peaches, pomegranates, grapes and dates. Attractions in the area include the Al-Hada Nature Reserve with its abundant flora and fauna. Watch out for the wild baboons roaming the area near the reserve and even in town. A signature dish in this region is seleeg, a savoury cardamom-scented rice pudding served with chicken.

• CURRENCY
  Saudi Riyal
• VISA
  Requirements vary. Visit mofa.gov.sa for details.
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
  November to March, when it’s cooler and less humid.
• HOW TO GET THERE
  Visit singaporeair.com for schedules and fares.
• MORE INFORMATION
  jeddah.gov.sa/English

• The Royal Touch