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Content accurate at time of publication
01 Oct 2011
The essential quick guide for discerning travellers
BY GEMMA PRICE
Sumptuous street fare abounds on every corner, but for fine dining that won’t break the bank, try Tib Restaurant, which hosted former US president George Bush in 2007. Standouts include lotus shoot salad with shrimp, crab in tamarind sauce and grilled chicken in fermented beancurd, all served in a tastefully ornamented setting befitting the Nguyen kings. Cuc Gach, set in a quaint converted French villa that’s a blend of Indochine and Vietnamese styles, is another popular contemporary Vietnamese option for dinner.
Revisit the city’s past at the War Remnants Museum (28 Vo Van Tan, District 3, Tel: 84 8 3930 5587), which documents the Vietnam War with relics ranging from military guns and vehicles to replicas of “tiger cage” prison cells. Another must-see is the Reunification Palace (106 Nguyen Du, District 1, Tel: 84 8 3829 4117), home to South Vietnam’s presidents during the Vietnam War. It was also the site of the handover of power when the city fell to the North Vietnam Army in 1975. Take a tour of the private quarters, dining rooms, war command room and basement labyrinth.
Dong Khoi is probably HCMC’s most famous street, home to highbrow shops, restaurants, cafes, upmarket boutiques and local labels. But it’s worth taking the time to explore the lanes with their myriad silver shops, quaint cafes and silk couture. Check out L’Usine, comprising an art space, a canteen-style cafe and international fashion boutique in one. Also, be sure to hit up Saigon institution and haggling hotspot Ben Thanh Market (Le Loi roundabout, District 1) for everything from silk to snacks. Cosmetics, chopsticks encased in mother-of-pearl-inlaid resin and kaleidoscopic lacquerware are peddled from the rows of stalls – just check their authenticity before bargaining.
See and be seen at Xu, where business professionals, movie producers and up-and-coming Vietnamese artistes unwind over coconut martinis and Passionfruit Caprioskas served by impeccably trained staff; be sure to try its modern interpretations of Vietnamese cuisine like its pork trio (below), comprising pepper pork with rice, pork belly with red cabbage and daikon, and pork loin with pumpkin mash and broccoli stems. Just up the road, Pacharan (97 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, Tel: 84 8 3825 6024) is another prime downtown spot. Delicious Spanish nibbles, fine wines and an inviting Galician atmosphere have made the cosy bar and rooftop terrace of this tapas establishment a hit. Contemporary cocktail bar 2 Lam Son at the Hyatt is one of the city’s chicest and most happening nightspots, attracting discerning drinkers and svelte club kittens into the wee hours.

While most of the action is centred in the downtown Districts of 1 and 3, venturing beyond the city’s leafy boulevards is well worth it. Take a cyclo tour of Cholon (Districts 5 and 6), HCMC’s Chinatown, where Vietnamese script gives way to brightly-coloured Chinese characters, traditional medicine shops and ornate Chinese pagodas. Phuoc An Hoi Quan (184 Hung Vuong), Quan Am (12 Lao Tu) and Thien Hau Pagodas (710 Nguyen Trai) are at the heart of the community and well worth a look. Or take the Saigon Bridge to An Phu, a neighbourhood of buzzing bars, spas and eateries. Check out LeSudGaudir, a restaurant set in a villa, which has a pool that customers can take a dip in if they like, or chill out at The Deck, which is set right on the water.
PHOTOS PHOTOLIBRARY / COURTESY FRED WISSINK, L’USINE / XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE
We are planning to take a trip to Ho Chi Minh next year with Singapore Airlines and look forward to this trip. The article is perfect and we will surely cover the places listed in it.
Jack Badhan, Canada