5 Must-Dos: Dhaka

01 Feb 2012

The essential quick guide for discerning travellers
BY JONNY COOPER

1. DELIGHTFUL DINING

The Heritage restaurant (House 10, Road 109, Gulshan 2, Tel: 880 2 882 9359) in the well-heeled Gulshan neighbourhood is the place to eat and be seen. Run by Bangladeshi-born British chef Tommy Miah, the fusion menu is popular, especially the tandoori meat grill, a platter of lamb, chicken, prawn and cottage cheese roasted to perfection in a tandoor oven. At artsy hangout Cafe Mango (House 6, Road 5, Dhanmondi, Tel: 880 2 913 6686), you’ll find the young and trendy sipping lassi and nibbling on sandwiches. For a time-honoured dining experience, head to Haji Biryani on Kazi Alauddin Road whose biryani (a spicy rice dish served with meat or vegetables) is legendary.

2. DOWN BY THE GHAT

To see the mesmerising Buriganga River (above) at its best, rent a boat from Sadarghat Launch Terminal and watch as your boatman expertly dodges all manner of oncoming traffic, from giant ferries to river workers traversing the water on little more than planks of wood. After, visit Ahsan Manzil (or Pink Palace), located just a five-minute walk from Sadarghat. The former residential palace of the Dhaka Nawab royal family, who ruled from the mid-19th to mid-20th century, houses the furnishings of the family including the dining table where they dined with historical figures like India’s former British viceroy Lord Curzon.

3. EXPLORE THE BAZAAR

Travel back in time in the Shakhari Bazaar neighbourhood, home to the Shakhari community since the 17th century, when they were allotted the land by the city’s Mughal rulers. The area is well regarded for its intricate conch shell jewellery. Make friends with the right craftsman, and you might just get an invite for an impromptu lesson in the traditional but disappearing craft.

4. SAVOUR A SWEET TREAT

Tea is a way of life in Bangladesh – strong, sweet and milky, it’s available from roadside stalls just about anywhere you look. The Mohamad Isobali Teashop, between Hotel Orchard Plaza and Hotel Victory in the city centre, serves some of the city’s best brews. Sweet shops are similarly ubiquitous, offering tempting curd-based sugary treats. There are plenty of roadside stalls, but if you’re not ready to brave them, head on down to Premium Sweets (Plot 22, Gulshan 2, Tel: 880 2 881 5390) for gulab jamun (deep fried milk dumplings; right) and rasgulla (cottage cheese balls in syrup), or mishti doi (a sweet yogurt) at Prominent Sweets (House 153E, Road 11, Banani, Tel: 880 2 986 1353).

5. SLEEP IN STYLE

After a day basking in the vibrancy of Dhaka, here are two perfect spots to rest your head. The Westin Dhaka (above) in Gulshan is a model of five-star luxe with its spacious rooms and contemporary decor. Rub shoulders with the city’s rich and famous at the glamorous Prego restaurant on the hotel’s level 23 rooftop bar. A stone’s throw away is Lakeshore Hotel & Apartments, the city’s hidden gem. A small and salubrious hotel, it offers a cosy feel and friendly service. Head to the rooftop pool at dusk to soak in the atmosphere, even as the minarets in the surrounding area join in the evening call to prayer.

• CURRENCY
  Bangladeshi Taka
• VISA
  Requirements vary. Visit Bangladesh Consulate for details.
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
  November to March sees cool and dry weather, with temperatures hovering in the late teens and high 20s.
• HOW TO GET THERE
  Singapore Airlines flies daily from Singapore to Dhaka.
• MORE INFORMATION
  Bangladesh Tourism Organization